Title Explanation

When predicting the sex of an unborn baby, the Oracle of Delphi is said to have claimed that it would be a "Boy No Girl." She thus covered both outcomes, as one could interpret the statement as "Boy. No girl," if the child was born male or "Boy, no-- girl," if the child was born female. Living in Ethiopia, it's difficult to know my role. Am I a foreigner, a "ferengi," or am I a local, like the Habesha? Sometimes, I'm a little bit of both.

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Showing posts with label Daily Life. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Daily Life. Show all posts

Monday, November 18, 2013

PCV Profiles: Jenny in Haruta

I went to visit my fellow G7, Jenny in Haruta this September for an Ethiopian holiday called Meskel.  I talk about Meskel in my First Five Months blog post (I was really bad about blogging at the start of my service).  But to reiterate, "Meskel [is] the Orthodox Christian celebration of the discovery of the True Cross by Queen Elena.  Legend has it, she burned incense and followed the smoke to its location.  So the Orthodox Christians always have a large bonfire with a cross in the center to commemorate this miracle."

I did the whole town celebration in Hossana last year.  This year, I wanted something more intimate, so I joined my friend Jenny and celebrated with her compound family.  While I was there, I took some great video of her and how she lives with her family.  I compiled them into one fifteen-minute long video that wouldn't fit on YouTube, so I split them up into two videos instead on different aspects of my weekend visit with Jenny.  The first video I entitle "Compound Life," and depicts Jenny washing dishes and socializing with her compound family.  The second video is all about the traditional buna ceremony she prepared for her compound family.  Jenny tried to do it all herself, but found that her compound family couldn't just sit idly by and watch her do it wrong.

Let's watch, shall we?

Jenny in Haruta: Compound Life




Jenny in Haruta: Making Coffee


Sunday, August 18, 2013

Life in Hossana - an Update

The power went out across town yesterday.  This, in and of itself, is not so unusual for Ethiopia.  However, the power went out for eight hours, came back on briefly for an hour, then went out again until about midnight (I know this because I'd accidentally left my light switched "on" and it woke me up).  This is unusual for Hossana, a big and bustling town that's spoiled as far as power and (as of last year) water are concerned.

I was supposed to be working on session plans and powerpoints for the trainings I'm doing during PST up in Butajira this week.  I was supposed to email those to our PCVL.  But the power was out and my computer died, so what can you do?  The good news is, I got all of that done today.  I'm uploading attachments to my email to our PCVL even as I type this.

It's unusual for me to not have power for any long stretch of time.  As such, I've never really had to entertain myself when I can't do work and/or use my laptop for fun things like watching TV or computer games.  I puttered around a bit.  Rearranged some stuff, cleaned my house.  And I saw how beautiful it was outside.  When my site mate, Christina, COSed, she sold me some of her furniture.  Because I was out of the country when she flew home, I had my landlord let her in and bring the furniture.  It's nice because I didn't actually have to move anything myself.  Also, Christina's couch and matching arm chair that she left me are super comfy.  I'd been using the chair as a dumping ground for all my things when I get in the door.  My purse, jacket, grocery bags of toilet paper, and other odds and ends were piled in the seat.  I cleaned them all off, and took the arm chair out onto my porch with a book I was in the middle of reading (The Mysterious Benedict Society, for those of you who are interested).  I also brought out some dried mangos and some apple juice I'd bought at my ferenge suk to snack on while I read in the sun.

I wasn't the only one enjoying the sun that day.  Hossana is home to a particular breed of small lizard that I have yet to identify.  I've always wanted to snap a photo of one of these lizards, but the problem is they dart away so fast it's impossible.  And, unlike geckos, they mostly keep out of sight and don't come into my house, so I only see them when they're racing from point A to point B across my path.  But not today.  Probably because it's in the middle of rainy season, these lizards need all the heat they can get.  So there was one on my porch, just chilling in a patch of sunlight as he soaked in the rays.  He was enjoying it so much, he allowed me to get stupid close to him and snap a photo on my old Palm Pre Plus - a two-year-old now defunct Smart Phone that I use to listen to podcasts and reread old text messages.  My phone has no zoom on it, so you can imagine how close I had to get to get the image you see here.


But that wasn't all my lizard action today (boy does that sound weird out of context).  My friend zoomed off, as lizards here do, onto what I refer to as the "patio area" of my yard.  It's really the old concrete foundation of a shed that my landlord knocked down not long after I arrived here last year.  Now, he's erected some sort of lattice work above the concrete to support a growing grape vine.  Anyways, as I followed my little friend out onto the patio, I saw him meet up with another, smaller lizard.  I don't know if the lizards were mates or not, but they didn't seem particularly perturbed by each other.  I watched them dine on a line of ants that were marching across the patio before they both scattered in other directions.  I took a short video of these two on my old phone, too.



Above is a photo of the view of my garden from my perch on my porch as I read my book.  It was so enjoyable just sitting out there and reading that I finished my book and began a new one on my refurbished Nook.  (Side note: I'm a little concerned about B&N's product.  This is my third one under an extended warranty, and though the first two had two completely different problems, they have the fact that it was caused by factors beyond my control in common - glitches hidden somewhere in the factory-installed software that messed up the programming, and I had only put legitimately purchased B&N Nook books on there, so I can't be accused of giving it viruses or anything.  At any rate, I hope third time's the charm and my Nook Simple Touch lasts, but if it doesn't, I'm writing a strongly worded review about this useful but entirely buggy product).  The new book I'm reading now - and halfway through already thanks to the blackout - is Ender's Game, which, yes, I've already read, but that was ten years ago now, and with the movie coming out, I need to refresh my memory.

In short, yesterday was the perfect way to mark my Peace Corps-versary.  Yes, that's right. On August 17, 2012, I was officially sworn in as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Ethiopia.  So what better way to celebrate than by going with the flow of no power and spending the day reading on my porch, smelling the flowers, watching the wildlife, instead of cursing the gods and complaining about how I can't get work done or watch my stories?  I must be growing up.

Carlin, August 17, 2012, Addis Ababa
Carlin, August 10, 2013, Ziway
Look how far I've come.  And when I say that, what I really mean is, look how long my hair has gotten!

I've also been making soups from scratch.  It's easy and delicious, and filling if you add enough thickener, rice and/or noodles to it.  Every time, the soup tastes different, because I'm always adding to it, but it's always delicious.  It's perfect for the rainy days that this season brings, and nice to curl up with and eat while I read my book on my new couch, or maybe watch an episode of Community on my laptop (if there's power).  I've included the recipe, with common substitutions below, just in case any of my friends want to know what the new staple of my diet tastes like.  It's a variation on the egg drop soup of the PCV Ethiopia Cookbook.  Which, by the way, if you want a creative cookbook with fun recipes and explanations on how to easily make Ethiopian and American food, shoot me an email and I'll be happy to forward you the PDF.  But there are two version of the egg drop soup in the cookbook.  Mine sort of combines both the recipes.  Here it is.

Ingredients 

4 cups of broth or stock (chicken, beef, or vegetable - dealer's choice)
2-3 skinned and sliced carrots
2-3 small onions, diced (in America, just use one big whole onion)
1 clove of garlic
1 tsp Ginger powder, or grated ginger root
1 tbsp of honey
1/4 cup of cold water
1 spoonful of corn flour
2 eggs
Black Cajun Seasoning (to taste)
Curry powder (to taste)
OPTIONAL: Noodles or rice

Substitution note: If you don't have stock cubes for broth, you can use seasoning from Ramen packs.  Perfect, if you're also using Ramen noodles.

Put the broth on to boil.  While that's heating up, dice your onions and garlic and slice your carrots and add to the soup.  Add ginger and honey, and seasonings to taste.  Meanwhile, in a separate bowl, combine the 1/4 cold water with corn flour and mix thoroughly until it is a milky liquid.  In another bowl, beat your two eggs.  Bring broth to a boil.  Add noodles and boil with broth for as long as noodle packet advices (note: if adding Ramen noodles, only boil 2 minutes, but spaghetti is normally about 8 minutes).  If not adding noodles, just consider how well cooked you want the carrots to be, although I've boiled for 8 minutes with carrots and noodles and it seems to turn out OK.  Slowly add corn flour mixture.  Be careful, as the flour will settle so mix it again if it does.  Remove from heat.  Add beaten eggs and mix them into the soup.  Soup should change color and texture with the eggs.  Serve while piping hot.

So that's been my hearty and tasty meal of the month, and as mentioned, it's perfect for the weather here right now.  And with autumn right around the corner for you fine folks in the States, I'll bet it'll be great for those chilly nights.  I've been thinking of trying to explore and create a Hossana spin-off of the recipes in the cook book every month.  My goal is to include a new "Peace Corps Carlin" recipe in this blog each month, to give you guys a little "taste" (haha) of my life here.

Anyways, I hope you enjoy my personal version of the egg drop soup.  Don't let the onions get to you too much (I am terrible at chopping onions, and have to take frequent breaks, but they're so delicious in the soup!)

Signing off for now (photos - and maybe even video of the lizards - to come in an update later this week, so watch this space!)

Carlin

Thursday, May 30, 2013

Top Thirty Things They Don't Tell You About Being a PCV

So I am coming up on my one year anniversary here in Ethiopia.  It's not my one year of service, just my one year of being in country, but it's important nevertheless.  To celebrate, I have asked my PCV and RPCV friends to confess at least one brutally honest no-holds-barred truth about serving as a Peace Corps Volunteer.  Most of these come from current or COSing volunteers in Ethiopia (G5-G8), but some come from a friend I met before Peace Corps, who served in Ghana.  Despite the fact that these have been contributed by mostly PCVs in Ethiopia, I feel that there is a certain universality to their confessions.

This is the challenge I gave my fellow PCVs:

"I was just thinking of writing a blog post (with your input) about all the things they don't tell you about being a PCV. You know, the nitty gritty, dirty, embarrassing, frustrating, make-you-wanna-cry moments, but also the funny stuff, things you never thought you'd get used to but have, things you never thought you'd miss but do, that stuff. So, name all the things no one told you about being a PCV that you learned the hard way. Aaaaand go."

So here they are, presented to you with some minor editing and additions on my part, so if you are a contributor to this list and weren't quoted directly, please don't take it personally.  From my comrades in arms to your monitor, here are:

Thirty Things They Don't Tell You About Being a PCV

1) You have an 85% chance of shitting your pants. How bad you have to shit versus the distance to the bathroom will become like a math problem you don't always know how to solve. Especially when you're on a bus and the distance has to factor in km/h, rain, likelihood of an accident or detour, probability of cow traffic, etc... - Nora, Debra and Dan, Ethiopia

2) It’s almost impossible to escape PST without getting bed bugs or fleas. - Ashley, Ethiopia

3) If you are a woman, integration with people your own age is nearly impossible. The men will hit on you and because of that, the women will mostly keep a good distance from you. - Ashley, Ethiopia

4) If you are a female education sector volunteer, you will have to plan your days strategically so as to handle the bathroom situation. What do I mean about bathroom situation? Well, there may be no bathroom, or there may be the most frightening bathroom you have ever seen, which explains why College and University students prefer to use the woods. I'm not joking. - Anonymous, Ethiopia 

5) You will eat dirt, rock and/or bone and you will tell yourself that it is salt. You will be so accustomed to terrible food that you will eat something, bite on something hard, spit it out, and find that you had almost ingested a bolt. (The screw, not the crossbow ammunition.) Then you will continue to eat after you return the bolt to the waiter (it probably held something important together, after all.) - Chad and Dustin, Ethiopia

6) You will have a cockroach crawl across your food and you wont care.  It's also possible that someone will be murdered the same night in the restaurant, but you'll still go back. - Carla, Ethiopia

7) You will boil rice with bugs in the grains and try to pick them out as they float to the top. - Karley, Ghana

8) Peace Corps medical staff will tell you that the best food is off-limits, but you are definitely going to eat/drink it anyway, and wind up naming your tapeworm. - Dan, Ethiopia 

9) You will be terrified to search your house for what is making that mysterious sound.  Your heart starts to pound as you search and search. You are terrified to pick anything up, so you poke everything with a stick or a shoe. As anticipation climbs, you become more and more jumpy.  Sometimes, it turns out to be a mouse or a rat (worst case scenario), sometimes, a cricket, sometimes a roach, and sometimes your stupid water filter dripping water on your plastic floor (best case scenario).  But even if it turns out to be nothing too bad, it will still keep you up at night, like the monsters under your bed you feared as a child. - Breanna, Ethiopia

10) You will get awful cravings for things you can't have, like crab dip, and this will haunt you for months at a time until you try and find away to send crab dip, or other perishables like a whole roast turkey for Thanksgiving, through the mail from America despite your friends and family telling you how impossible this is. - Jenny and Carlin, Ethiopia

11) Restaurant signs advertise everything they don't have. Don't be fooled! - AJ, Ethiopia

12) Rats can climb walls and often live in the ceiling, and some nights you'll wake up to a bump in the ceiling hoping and praying they don't fall through... Also, they can jump surprisingly high. - Lacy and Trudie, Ethiopia

13) You will become so used to days and weeks on end without power that you will find really creative ways to entertain yourself, like playing solitaire by yourself by candle light which quickly becomes more fun than any movie or video game.  Or even simply staring off into nothing for hours will become a casual pastime. - Jenny and Carlin, Ethiopia and Karley, Ghana

14) You will have no water at your site for a long stretch of time and have to resort to catching water in a rain bucket to use for cooking and bathing.  This is all well and good, until the wet season ends and you still have no water, and mosquitos start breeding in your wain bucket. - Karley, Ghana and Carlin, Ethiopia

15) Sleeping under mosquito net will be comforting and feel like a princess canopy, a fort, or a hypoallerginic bubble that nothing can penetrate - until a bug breaches your netted security. - Karley, Ghana and Carlin, Ethiopia

16) You will have a full on deep conversation with a local while they are knuckle deep in their nose and/or scratching their balls. - Sham, Ethiopia

17) Nobody in your host community will really want to work with you and they will make up a thousand and one reasons which are supposed to explain why they are so uninspired. They will hide a key from you for a year so you can't get in the room where you are supposed to work, and once they do finally give you the key, they will then start writing official letters about you accusing you of stealing a broken laminator and giving it to orphans or other such nonsense (without evidence, just because they feel like it). - Anonymous, Ethiopia

18) If you are a male volunteer, you become a secret agent in the boys' club which is both good and bad, because you will find out that local men will apparently tell you things about their sex lives that they don't tell each other. - Joel, Ethiopia

19) Most weeks, the closest you will come to showering or bathing is wiping your body down with baby wipes, and you will learn to be OK with that. - Jackie, Ethiopia

20) You will be stared at, followed and photographed, and become famous in your town, developing sudden empathy for celebrities fighting against paparazzi.  Sometimes, they will shout very rude things, sometimes they will shout things that they mean to be friendly but sound rude anyway.  You will also learn to let all of it roll off your back (most days) or imagine how you will kill them all (on bad days). - Karley, Ghana and Carlin, Ethiopia

21) You will not be be listened to. You will have an experience that wouldn't ever happen to a local, and then they're like "Aw, be strong, don't worry about it." But if the same thing happened to them as often as it happens to you, it'd be different. If that were to happen, they would probably understand that the advice "don't worry" or "ignore it" just doesn't make you feel supported. - Joel, Ethiopia

22) Something good: Your co-workers will eventually finally start to realize that you experience a lot of things that they don't. People have this cursory understanding of people being equal, but they don't factor in that our experiences are different. Sometimes, explaining that no, you can't just ignore them yelling at you because you don't feel safe, a few lights will turn on. In a nutshell, something they don't tell you about being a PCV: how much you need your alliances. - Joel, Ethiopia

23) Once you pee in a bucket, there's no going back. You break that barrier one time and it becomes a lifestyle choice. Hole-in-the-ground latrines will become obsolete for situations other than numero dos... Well unless you have a stash of plastic bags for that job. - Lesley, Ethiopia 

24) Your bus will break down.  Your bus will get a flat tire.  You will be sitting next to a vomiting person.  That vomiting person will vomit on your bag.  They will not apologize. - Jackie, Ethiopia

25) You could shake out all ants that have gotten into your things (or created full-on colonies) and reuse them still. This includes book bags, linoleum floors, bag of Fritos sent from the states. - Karley, Ghana

26) You will have worn down skin on knuckles from washing clothes, because it's a high possibility that skin is dissolved after constant contact with the detergent in your host country. - Karley, Ghana

27) You will become a fan of terrible local music, and learn all the words to all the songs in the local language. - Karley, Ghana and Carlin, Ethiopia

28) You will be forced to eat organic for two years, and when I say organic, I mean you will look your meal in the eye and say, "I am going to eat you tonight."  You will know exactly where all of your food comes from. - Karley, Ghana and Carlin, Ethiopia

29) You will come to doubt the intentions of any local who wants to be your friend, wondering if they just want a visa, or if they want to marry you, or worse.  But you will also find locals who do not have these ulterior motives.  They may be hard to find, but they are worth searching for. - Carlin, Ethiopia

30) You will become so comfortable discussing your grossest illnesses and bodily functions with fellow PCVs, you will almost forget how to talk about anything else in more polite social circles. - Carlin, Ethiopia

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Cockroach-Gate



When I was little and living in Tashkent, Uzbekistan, my mother, with the best of intentions, rented a kids’ movie from the commissary to entertain me.  This movie, rated PG, was called Mouse Hunt, and involved two stooge-like characters in a never-ending battle against a mouse that lived in a decrepit mansion they had inherited.

You would think that beginning my blog post in such a way that I will be describing a similar farcical adventure akin to Wile Coyote’s fruitless but fearless pursuit of the roadrunner.  While it’s true that I recently discovered there is a furry brown rodent living in my house (and I think, often, under my bed), that is not what I wish to address in this blog post.

As a brief aside, however, yes, there is a mouse in my house, and I spot him frequently.  Though he terrified me the first time, I have grown accustomed to his whiskered face.  I have locked away all of my foods either in my cabinet or my fridge, but there didn’t seem to be any nibbles anyway, and see few droppings which leads me to believe he doesn’t live in my house proper, but perhaps somewhere nearby.  His name is Theodore, and there will be more about him later.

Today, I would like you to imagine the fanciest hotel in Hossana.  This is the hotel where all Peace Corps staff like to stay whenever they visit my humble town.  They have the most extensive menu of any hotel or restaurant in town.  They are the only establishment that offers pizza, and only on the occasion that they have the cheese and electricity available to make it.

I have been to this hotel restaurant four times in a row since Saturday, where I dined there with my site mate, a Group 5 health sector volunteer named Deanna.  For reference, I’m two generations after Deanna in Group 7.  Deanna is ten weeks from COSing – closing her service and moving back to the States.  She has been in this country for two years almost to the day, and since arrival has suffered through a number of medical conditions from typhoid to giardia.  She is fearless in the face of anything Ethiopia has to throw at her, being a seasoned veteran of its trenches and germ warfare.  That Saturday, she was returning from a week-long trip starting in Hawassa for a 7k marathon, then three days of hiking and horseback riding in the Bale Mountains, followed by another night in Hawassa and some time in Addis, so she was pretty exhausted.  We dined on steak sandwiches, on account of our favorite menu item, pizza, was not available that day.  I also asked for fish, but there was none.

The following day, I met another ferengi at this restaurant, Victoria.  Victoria, from Newcastle, is one of two local VSO volunteers who arrived a few months after I did in September 2012.  She tries to work up at the college with me, but finds she is more appreciated and gets more done at the university and local deaf school.  Victoria had joined Deanna on this trip through the mountains, and was equally tired.  She and I split a chicken pizza, which was delicious.  Still no fish.

Then it was back to the college on Monday, where I met up with the IFESH volunteer, Melissa, who spent a lot of time in New York City before coming here in November 2012.  When the lunch bell rang, we also headed for Lemma where we ran into Deanna and Victoria and joined them for lunch.  Victoria wasn’t eating, but Melissa ordered a fasting pizza – all veggies, no cheese, and I ordered some t’ibs, a local Ethiopian meat dish.  Deanna ordered a steak sandwich but it never showed up until way later, and the fries she ordered were undercooked.  Still no fish.

Which brings us to today, when the four of us met yet again at Lemma for lunch.  To reiterate, Deanna, who has been here for two years, is tied with my other PC site mate, Christina for being here the longest time.  I come in second, as I approach my one year mark.  Then Victoria, who’s been here nearly nine months, and lastly Melissa.  This order is important, and you will later learn why.  The four of us settled in for a hearty lunch at Lemma, all of us starving.  Victoria and Deanna decided to split a chicken pizza and Melissa got her standard fasting pizza, trying and failing to get them not to put mushrooms on it.  Me, I ordered the beef goulash and it was delicious.  For a while, we were talking and laughing and everything was fine.

And then disaster struck.

In Mouse Hunt, the two protagonists were forced to deal with this mansion when they lost their jobs running a restaurant in New York City.  How did they lose their jobs?  Well, the mayor came to dine at their restaurant, and it didn’t end well for him.  In fact, it ended in his death.  Because you see, the restaurant was not up to health codes, and as such a cockroach managed to get into the mayor’s food, which I believe was spaghetti.  He was eating away until one of his daughters commented on something gross in his food.  Taking his fork away, the mayor saw that he had bitten into a cockroach, its back half still squirming.  His eyes bulge, he has a heart attack and dies.  Being a child, I didn’t understand the nuances of this scene.  For example, I missed the fact that the mayor had a heart attack, and thought that his cause of death was ingesting a cockroach.  This one scene in an otherwise forgettable children’s comedy scarred me for life.

In case you have never visited, Tashkent, Uzbekistan is rife with all sorts of interesting insects and arachnids from aphids to scorpions.  And after going away for the summer, we came back to find our basement infested with roaches, so they weren’t an insect I was exactly unfamiliar with.  Upon seeing this film, for weeks I would dig through the food my parents lovingly prepared for me.  It came to the point when I was digging through some pasta of my own when I recall my mother saying in exasperation, “Carlin, I made that myself, there are NO bugs in that pasta!”

I don’t remember how long I went about dutifully inspective every piece of food that went into my mouth, but clearly since then I have got over my fears.  Still, the scene from Mouse Hunt remains with me to this day, and this is a child who survived Total Recall and It without any nightmares.  But Mouse Hunt got to me.

This story is important for you to understand the significance of the event that took place at Lemma International Hotel on Tuesday, May 21, 2013 at approximately 1:30PM.  We were eating.  I had already finished my goulash, and the pizzas had recently come out because they take a while to cook.  My three companions were munching away when all of a sudden I noticed Deanna staring intently at the pizza.  She moved her face physically closer to it to get a better look and our conversation gradually ebbed away until I asked her, “What are you looking at?”

Deanna didn’t respond.  She simply squints at the food, then takes a knife and slowly pokes at something baked into the cheese.  We three move closer ourselves to get a better look and at pretty much the exact same time we all recoil with various cries of disbelief and disgust.

A cockroach had been baked into the pizza, and was blending in with the bits of mushroom, herbs and roast chicken.

Melissa is so put off by this that she has to stand up and walk away from the table, after loudly exclaiming “No!” like Luke Skywalker upon hearing who his father was.  By now, all I know is I am laughing and I think Deanna is laughing too, while Victoria just doesn’t look happy.

“I saw it, too,” she said later, “but I had been hoping it was some bit of hair, or maybe an odd mushroom.”  She’d seen Deanna looking at it in her head and had begged her not to expose it for what it was, hoping to live in denial just a little while longer.

Deanna reached over to take the roach out and keep eating, but Victoria called over the waiter.  Both of them pointed at the incriminating evidence and the waiter immediately whisked the pizza away.  Deanna expressed her desire to keep eating, but Victoria explained that she could.  Melissa eventually came back to the table and looked at her own pizza in dismay.  Despite all of our urgings that the roach wasn’t in HER pizza, she still insisted it must have crawled over it to get to Deanna and Victoria’s pizza.  She starts talking about how because they were in the same oven, roaches obviously must have crawled over it, and must be crawling everywhere in that oven.

“Melissa,” I said, “that doesn’t make sense.  Ovens are hot, you can’t crawl all over them like that.  No, it’s more likely it crawled on it on the prep table and then just got baked in.”  My logic did nothing to reassure her.

In the meantime, Victoria was trying hard not to think about all the diseases cockroaches carry and all the reasons they’re gross.  “Ethiopia carries diseases,” Deanna pointed out nonchalantly.

“Yes,” Victoria returned, “but I don’t put Ethiopia in my mouth!”

By this point, for my part, I just found the whole thing hilarious, and Deanna maintained her desire to have kept eating once the pest had been removed.  “Who cares?” she said. “I’m hungry!”

“That’s why you get so many bacterial infections!” said Victoria.

Deanna and Victoria eventually ordered a steak sandwich instead and began to munch on it.  I commented on how proud I was of myself that I could laugh at this situation, considering my traumatic history with cockroaches and food.  Then again, I admitted, the roach wasn’t in my food.  Victoria pointed out that it must be Ethiopia that has changed us, as Deanna confessed that two years ago, she would have reacted just as Melissa had.  Victoria says that Deanna, who has been here the longest, is the most unfazed, followed by me who found it funny and started talking about gross things roaches did as a matter of wonder while Melissa and Victoria tried not to be sick.  Then there’s Victoria, who is somewhat fazed by the incident, bothered enough by it to send the whole pizza back, and then lastly, there’s Melissa, who was so disgusted she had to physically distance herself from the table before she could calm down and was thinking of swearing off Lemma’s food entirely.

“But then,” Victoria began with a chuckle, “where are you going to eat, Melissa?”

If this experience has taught me anything is that I have learned to laugh at just about any disgusting thing that roles my way.  I’m following in Deanna’s footsteps and will probably be willing to eat anything once the offending object has been removed, whether that’s a fly in my soda, or a cockroach in my pizza.  In fact, I’m halfway there, having fished out many-a-fly from my beverages in the past.  I, too, probably would have eaten the pizza, just not the bit where the roach had been, while Deanna insisted that she would have even eaten that part, once she’d picked it out.

It does make me wonder, though.  If Deanna extended for a third year, would she reach the point where she would have found the roach… and eaten the whole thing anyway?  I mean, hey, we do need the protein.

So what’s the grossest thing you’ve ever done?  What do you think would be the grossest thing you’d be willing to do, after living in a developing country for a year?

Friday, January 18, 2013

First Three Months At Site

JANUARY PREFACE: I managed to salvage this much from the wreckage of my hard drive of my original "Three Month" entry, which was drafted in October, when Jackie was visiting.  For a more concise version of my first four months at site, please see  this entry here.  I am posting this for a more expanded view of August and September.  I had written October as well, but lost that when I lost my computer.

---

So I have learned a lot about myself in these first three months.  Namely, that while I had absolutely no problem updating the world on every mundane detail of my teenage life, for some reason I seem incapable of updating a blog about moderately interesting things on a regular basis.  But I felt in a big update mood today, so as I write this I am also uploading a couple hundred photos to Facebook, taking advantage of my free wireless.  We'll see how many actually get posted.

I am going to reflect on my first three months here month by month:

August

I arrived in Hossana on August 17th, where I road down with several PCVs in my group, most notably Jackie, who is my nearest site neighbor (and bringing me pumpkin bread!  But we'll get to that when I get to October).  My goal was to take a week to relax and get some things in my house together before jumping in with both feet the following Monday and going to the college every day, if only so I could be seen every day by the folks at the college.  My counterpart, Elfineh, advised me against this, because summer school was still going on.  So he told me to wait until the next school year started up, and I took his advice.  I spent the rest of the month ordering and obtaining furniture for my room.  All the furniture I have now, I got in my first few weeks.  And "all" the furniture includes a bed, complete with mattress, and a cabinet.

The first impression I had of my house was one of surprise and relief.  On the way down to Hossana from Addis, we dropped off several PCVs along the way, and I got to see their living quarters.  I'd also seen living quarters for PCVs when I visited Kemise, and the compound where I lived in Bekoji is also what a PCV can expect.  In fact, there's a PCV from my group currently living on my compound, with my host family as his landlord family.  Yeah, I'm kinda jealous, because I love them so much, but it's also nice to be here.  Also why it's nice to be here?  My house is beautiful.  Most PCVs have one room, maybe two if they are lucky, unless they are married.  They'll probably have a shared shintebet and a showerbet that's basically a concrete room to splash around in.  I have three rooms, plus a private porch with a beautiful vegetable garden, and a private shintebet.  I also have a showerbet with an actual shower in it, hooked up to the pipes.  Of course, upon arrival, there was no water in the pipes at all, but hey, it was rainy season, and I was used to bucket bathing after living in Bekoji for two and a half months.  I got by just fine.

There was one minor problem.  There was a beehive on my front porch.  Filled with honest-to-God bees.  After typing about this story for a while, I've decided it warrants its own blog post.  So I'll tell you the tale of the bees and what became of them (and me) in a follow-up to be posted very soon (I promise!)

September

In early September, I had my site mate Deanna help me hang my mosquito net over my bed.  In reality, she did most of the hanging, and I did most of the delegating.  When I went to sleep that night and tried to close the curtains over my windows/door, I realized a problem.  Deanna and I had placed the nail holding my net up right in the path of the curtain, so I couldn't close it all the way.  Never one to do anything by myself (even when I am perfectly capable) I had my landlord fix it with a hammer the next day by moving it to the center where the curtains met.  And now, I'm protected from mosquitoes, and I can close my curtains.  Happy day!

September 11th is Ethiopia's equivalent of January 1st.  So I celebrated the New Year at my site mate, Christina's compound.  Christina wasn't actually there, but Deanna and I spent time with her landlord family.  Dorowat is the traditional meal of choice on Ethiopian New Year, so I ate a lot of that.  It's basically chicken in a red sauce with berbere that you eat (like everything else) with injera.  The next day, I went over to Deanna's house with my new egg boiler and made deviled eggs.  It was my first taste of legitimate Americana in Ethiopia and it was delicious. She also made this peanut sauce that we had over rice - also delicious.  The next day, Elfineh invited me over and I had more dorowat.  He said he didn't invite me for the new year because he thought I was in Addis.  I don't know why he was under that impression, but I didn't ask.  We talked a lot about all sorts of things, particularly current events which, at the time, revolved around the attack on the American embassy in Libya and the protests and riots across Muslim countries.  I've noticed Ethiopians like to talk international politics and news with ferenge, and they keep asking me when we'll know if Obama is president again.

Life moved on for the most part (excluding the bee situation, which you'll hear about later) until September 27th, which is the Ethiopian Orthodox Christian celebration of Meskel, particularly big where I am in the Southern Nations.  Meskel is the celebration of the discovery of the True Cross by Queen Eleni.  Legend has it that she was told how to find the cross in a dream, and that the smoke from a great fire would tell her.  So they built this massive bonfire with frankincense and wood and stuff, and the smoke blew in the direction of where the cross was buried, and supposedly touched down right on top of it.  Queen Eleni ordered her people to dig and discovered this holy artifact.  To commemorate this moment, every year Ethiopians have massive bonfires and dance around them and eat a lot of food.  Good times had by all.

Unless by "all" you mean Carlin, in which case, no, Meskel night was not a great celebration for me.  I mean, I had an awesome time and all watching the ceremony and got some great photos that you can find on my Facebook.  I'd like to share photos here, but they'll have to be edited in later.  Interwebz is misbehaving.  Anyway, the ceremony itself was fantastic, but I must not have drank a lot of water that day, or maybe my blood sugar was low, or maybe the temperature changes from hot day to cool evening to hot fire to cool night were just too much for my body to handle.  I tried to revive myself in a cafe with a soda and water (to cover all my bases), but drinking these things just made me feel worse.  Inevitably, I told Deanna I was going home.  She was going to walk with me, so I stood up, turned around, and collapsed in the middle of the cafe.  Apparently, I fell right on some Habesha man's lap and freaked him out before hitting the floor.  I woke up a few seconds later, completely confused.  I sat down and recovered while Deanna called her then-boyfriend to take me home in his car.  After I got home, I felt much better, but that's the first time I've actually fainted in my life.  I have almost fainted before, been on the verge of it and everything, but never actually done it.  It was exciting times indeed, that Meskel.

October

[Missing...]







Hossana - The First Five Months

So I guess I am awful at blogging.  Thankfully, most of you follow me on Facebook and notice my small triumphs as status updates.

This blog entry was initially titled "The First Three Months At Site" back when I was drafting it in November.  And then, my computer did a face plant on the concrete and I lost the (at the time, unsaved) word document with the very long update, which detailed, month by month from August through October, my exploits.  Here, you will find the short version of that in bullet points, plus two extra months (December and January).  December was so eventful, it's possible it will warrant its own post.

Highlights From August
  • For the first few weeks, I slept in my sleeping bag on a mattress on the floor.  This month involved adjusting to life in town and figuring things out at my house.
  • I ordered a bed frame for my mattress and a cabinet to store some stuff, mostly food.  To this day, this is all the furniture I have in my house, excluding some plastic chairs.
  • I wandered aimlessly, wondering what to do.
  • I battled spiders and other creepy crawlies in my mattress bed which brings me to my last and most important point about August -
  • The bees.  My house, beautiful and big as it is, had one tiny flaw.  Or rather, hundreds of tiny flaws.  Bees.  There was a domesticated beehive perched on my front porch that my landlord was using to make honey.  This was all well and good, and I didn't think it would be a problem, until for some reason the bees found their way into my house every time the light was on at night.  My temporary solution?  Don't turn on my lights at night.
  • On August 26th, my landlord came over to check on the bees, shining a flashlight directly in the hive.  Because he is good-natured and he wanted me to feel included, he asked me to look at all the honey he was going to get.  I obliged, stepping out on my porch, leaving my door ajar.  This was a bad idea.  Because he had awoken the bees at night, they were all up and buzzing - and swarming to the light in my house, which I had turned on to see where I was going before I went outside.  This is the second time this has happened, but it's significant because this time, I tried to rid them myself.  Before, my landlord helped.  This was a bad idea.  A bee got caught in my hair.  I ran around like a chicken with my head cut off batting at it.  This was also a bad idea.  So I got stung in the scalp, and my landlord, a nurse, spent a good ten minutes digging out the stinger for me.  This was the day I put my foot down and told him to move the bees.

Welcome to Hossana!

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Highlights from September
  • September in Ethiopia is kind of like December in the United States and Europe.  There are two big cultural celebrations, one of which is the end of the old year and the beginning of the new one.
  • September 11th, the Ethiopian New Year, saw me at my site mate, Christina's house with her landlord's family eating dorowot.  Wonderful, but uneventful.
  • I finally got the furniture I ordered.  My bed and cabinet are set up.  A few weeks later, my site mate, Deanna, helped me hang my mosquito net.  Goodbye, creepy crawlies in my bed!  (For the most part)
  • September 27th marked Meskel, the Orthodox Christian celebration of the discovery of the True Cross by Queen Elena.  Legend has it, she burned incense and followed the smoke to its location.  So the Orthodox Christians always have a large bonfire with a cross in the center to commemorate this miracle.  I had fun, watching the celebration where the market generally was.  Although, all in all, it wasn't a good day for me.  I was feeling dizzy, either from low blood sugar or dehydration or both, but when I tried to hydrate with water and a soda, it didn't go so well.  Deanna was taking me home in her then boyfriend's car.  I stood up, turned around and passed out, right in the lap of another diner, who was horrified!  It was my first time fainting ever, so it should be commemorated.
  • Meskel was also the day I met the new VSO volunteer at the college in our town, Victoria.  What a crazy first impression I must have made! 


Here is a photo from Meskel. Note the preparation for the giant bonfire later. The choir is in the background, and this holy man seems to be leading the service.

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Highlights from October
  • The eighth group of Peace Corps Volunteers since the program reopened in 2007 arrived in the first week of October.  G8, as they are known, are a combination group of health and environment volunteers and went on their site demystification that week.  You remember my trip to Kemise?  Well, a handful of them came to Hossana, so I got to meet them.  That was strange.  G7 wasn't the newbies anymore.  It was sort of like passing the torch.  I expect it will feel similar when the next education group comes in June.
  • I asked when school started.  Technically, most of the schools start after the New Year, but no one really goes until after Meskel.  Even so, this was when the college begins to begin to think of starting.  Elfineh, my counterpart, said that they needed to do things first, like recruit freshmen.  School didn't really start until the end of October.
  • I had my installation meeting in October.  Basically, it's a meeting where you invite everyone in town with whom you want to work to introduce yourself and your purpose, with the help of a Program Assistant, which was Zebib.  No one came to my installation at first, but Zebib called everyone and made them come in the afternoon (it was suppose to happen in the morning).  She was also shocked that I was living with bees.  She put on her puppy dog eyes and told my landlord that our Safety and Security officer was all on her case about these bees (he wasn't) and that they were blaming her for placing me here (they weren't) and couldn't he help her out by moving them, because if he didn't, she would be forced to move ME (that one may or may not have been true...)  Whatever her amusing tactics, they certainly worked, and my landlord finally moved my bees the next night.  She's better than I am at putting her foot down, I guess.
  • Moving the hive was all well and good... if the bees had gotten the memo.  They didn't.  On the first day it was gone, they buzzed around my porch in a frenzy.  I thought they were going to charge my house and murder me for stealing their hive.  But then they began to mellow out a bit, and they darting and buzzing seemed less angry and more sad and confused.  Where is our home? it seemed to say.  We are lost.  I felt kind of bad.  Until I got worried they were just building a new one on my porch (see picture below).  But eventually, even those bees died or went away.  The hive, which wasn't moved all that far, just to the other side of the house (my landlord's porch instead of mine) wasn't as active for a while, having left their workers behind, but I think they've birthed a new generation by now and are doing fine.
  • Jackie, the closest G7 volunteer in Durame, came up to celebrate Halloween with me.  She was a delight, and so were the home-baked treats she brought!  We spent the weekend sharing ghost stories under the night sky, eating candy from care packages, munching on her pumpkin bread, and watching the Walking Dead.  It was a fantastic time.

The homeless bees, the insanity from the loss of their hive driving them to the delusion that it still exists around this pole and no one can see them or hurt them, despite how exposed they really are.

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Highlights from November
  • The day after Halloween, I'm informed I'm teaching three classes, and I was supposed to have started a week ago.  Oh, Ethiopia.
  • November was also the month that marked my laptop's debilitating accident.  It had a fight with the ground and the ground one.  I left it in Simon's capable hands, as I had to go off to IST.  Simon is a VSO at the college who specializes in technology.  He told me my hard drive was shot, but luckily, he had a spare he was willing to sell me and install for free.  Basically, he patched up my poor Stanley (the laptop's name) as best he could, all at no cost to me (except for the hard drive.)  That kind of labor would have cost me an arm and a leg in the States, and I thanked him profusely.  Unfortunately, Stanley was never the same after that.  He was running Windows XP now, for one, so I had flashbacks of 2006 when I logged on.  Also, sometimes, weird things would happen.  Stanley had survived the fall, but he was permanently damaged and there was nothing I could do.
  • Onto happier times!  November was also IST - In Service Training.  I got to travel to Ambo to see all my wonderful G7 friends.  We went to dinner, we had trainings, we played Resistance, we hung out.  Good times had by all, and definitely the morale booster I sorely needed after my poor laptop's accident. 
  • One activity we did was hike down to a crater lake called Lake Wenchi.  That was a beautiful, beautiful hike, and I thoroughly enjoyed both the journey and the company.  And normally, I am NOT a hiker!
  • I spent Thanksgiving in Addis Ababa with some of the closest members of my Peace Corps family.  We dined like kings at a buffet at the Hilton and it was delicious.
  • After IST, I went on a tour of the Colleges of Teacher Education with other G7 volunteers in CTEs.  We started at Hawassa.  On the way, our car got a flat tire.  We tried to replace it, only to realize that one of our spares was also flat, and the second had a nail in it, and it would be flat soon.  We waited on the side of the road as our driver hitchhiked to the next town to get help.  Gete (bless her), who along with Zebib was chaperoning this little outing, said to us that it was no big deal, that he would be back in ten minutes, tops, and we'd be on the road.  When Ashley pointed out that this was a little more than a ten minute problem, she looked genuinely surprised and said, "Really?"  I learned yesterday that Gete unfortunately passed away.  She was a great program manager.  She was also the first person who tried to teach me Amharic.  Godspeed, Gete, and God bless.
  • Hawassa is beautiful.  We met up with G5 retiree volunteer Priscilla, who made us tacos, the sweet dear!  She was very hospitable to us, and we had a great time.  I also went on a boat ride and saw hippos and ate fish.  Delightful.  The CTE there was awesome, too.  Very on the ball.  I understand why their ELIC (English Language Improvement Center) is the best in the country.
  • From Hawassa, we went to Hossana and I got to play hostess and show people my town.  I took them up to the college and was heartened to know that my CTE is farther along than a lot of their CTEs.  I was proud, even though I had nothing to do with it.
  • From Hossana, we went to Jima, by way of Wolkite.  Jima is a very interesting town, to say the least.  Fellow PCVs Ashley and Chandler describe it as "The land where the zombie apocalypse happened, and people just kept living their lives."  We saw the Jima CTE, which was on the "struggling" end of the spectrum.  We were supposed to go down and see the Bonga CTE, but it rained the night before, and it was a dirt road.  We opted instead to stay in Jima and not sink in the mud.

Here's a beautiful view of Lake Hawassa from the shore. I took this on our second day in Hawassa on the CTE tour.

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December

I won't say much of December now.  I'll save that for a later update.  Let's just say, I was only in Hossana for two weeks out of the month, and this is called "Hossana - the First Five Months".  I was really busy trying to get my class in order.  We did all right.

January

I suppose that brings us up to present day!  Life goes on in Ethiopia.  January 7th was their Christmas, which they call Genna.  I spent it recovering from a bus ride from Addis.  Why was I in Addis?  That's a story for another time.

I'll try and be better with my blog updates.  I'm hoping the fact that this has pictures will help.  Here is some more, because one per month just doesn't do it justice!

This little girl is the sweet daughter of my furniture maker. For the life of me, I can't remember her name (this photo was taken at the end of October), but I taught her "Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes."

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Below, you will see a beautiful shot of a valley near Lake Wenchi. Notice the little wooden aqueduct bringing water to the structure.

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My good friend, Jenny and me in front of the beautiful vista tat is the crater lake, Wenchi.

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Adorable local kids who live in the village by Lake Wenchi.

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A weird-looking stork in front of Lake Hawassa!

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The deadliest animals in Africa, not ten feet away from our boat in Hawassa.

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Locals frying and selling freshly caught tilapia near Lake Hawassa.

Fish sellers by Lake Hawassa.  Tilapia, to be specific.  Tasty tilapia to be even more specific. photo 533970_10101622206631808_1414976932_n.jpg